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The Sevens

A number of things to like
April 5, 2006 2:07:45 PM

The SevensIf you’re looking for Godiva martinis and lobster mashed potatoes, you’ve hit up the wrong tap. The Sevens spins no techno music, nor does it boast any of the recessed crimson lighting that’s become fashionable in many local bars. If you show up in stilettos, you’ll probably be met with confused stares.

More likely than not, it’s the absence of that urban-bar trendiness that makes this Charles Street tavern a Beacon Hill institution. “Unpretentious,” “low-key,” and “good-natured” describe this place where locals meet up to watch a game over beers and sandwiches, and solos arrive with a good book or the paper and slide in along the weathered wooden benches for an afternoon at ease.

Of course, pub fare rarely exceeds low expectations and usually offers little more than beer munchies. But give this menu a chance and you’ll end up pleasantly surprised when you’re presented with a warm mug of vegetarian lentil soup ($3.95) or a basket of tortilla chips with homemade tomato salsa ($4.95). The French-dip sandwich ($6.50), with your choice of sweet-and-sour coleslaw, potato salad, or chips and a pickle, comes piled high with rare beef and a crock of warm jus. The knockwurst platter ($5.50) — traditionally German, with potato salad and sauerkraut — is best washed down with a tall schooner of Hefeweitzen ($6).

The Sevens | 77 Charles Street, in Boston | Mon-Sat, 11:30 am-1 am; Sun, noon-1 am | 617.523.9074.

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