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robert nadeau
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A New Kind of Hot
You be careful what you ask for, and I'll be careful what I write.
A small-plate menu that goes full boar
A number of restaurants have failed in this odd multilevel space, stuck in a kind of cultural canyon between the Copley Place mall and the Tent City apartment complex.
Some wonder sprinkled amid the uncertainty
So you have this very high-end chef, William Kovel, running a fancy hotel dining room, Aujourd'hui at the Four Seasons.
A skillful take on 'fake' Mexican
Papagãyo is the last of a group of tequila bars that has opened in Boston in the past couple of years, and I would not be overly sad to close the book.
Tasty new flavors from Ethiopia
Either this is the best Ethiopian food in Boston, or the whole scene has advanced greatly since the last time I got to review in this genre.
Challenging Boston's restaurant scene to a year that tones down the bacon, ramps up the desserts, and comes up with a new word for "gastropub."
Memo to new restaurants: follow the 10 pieces of entirely new advice below and I will keep that hungry/friendly feeling come typing time.
The year in restaurants
This past year was so simple. It was the year of the gastropub, and if you didn't paint the ceiling black and put the menu or the beer list on a blackboard, you were old school.
All-American barbecue with a subtle, steady touch
What happens when a name chef decides to open a barbecue joint?
Jazzing it up with old-school cocktails
There must be some readers out there who remember the original Boston Storyville, a jazz nightclub.
Not the old Ritz, but still very useful for many needs
Pretending that the Artisan Bistro wasn't inside the Boston Common Ritz-Carlton, I would say this is a pretty good gastropub with an emphasis on food and unusually good service with a few old-school trimmings.
Gourmet bits in Back Bay, never mind the history
The Brahmin is a useful restaurant with a bad name.
Terrific Mexican with a waterfront view
I admit, I'm a food nerd, and there are things that I miss because they aren't on the plate.
Deconstruction done right
Forum took over the Back Bay space that used to be Vox Populi, and sticks with the general VP design of sports bar downstairs and fine dining — in this case, somewhat futuristic food — upstairs.
A heartfelt tribute to Spanish tapas
I didn't like the idea of Tres Gatos, but turns out it's a very impressive restaurant.
Familiar favorites with a craft-beer chaser
I don't get Five Horses Tavern's name, but I get the concept.
Some clever gastropub grub, with a focus on beer
You know, I can do this gastropub thing.
Serious seasonal eating that's well worth the effort
There are no journeymen at the Journeyman.
Locally sourced goodness, with a touch of the South
As Redd's in Rozzie puts it, "modern and traditional American cooking with attention to using local ingredients and making it as funking good as we can."
Wide-ranging Chinese with consistently polished quality
C.K. Sau was Boston's first Chinese-American celebrity chef.
Southeast Asian treats among some head-scratchers
The owners have some very good ideas about food and drink — Southeast Asian treats are cool, and craft cocktails go better with them than wine does — but they have also produced some decisions that make the rest of us scratch our heads.
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